Cutting porcelain tile: how should you do it?
Porcelain paving slabs are the golden standard for gardening. The material is incredibly durable and practically weatherproof. But the very features that make it perfect for your patio can make it a nightmare to install (if you aren't prepared).
Porcelain isn’t as forgiving as traditional ceramic tiles: use the wrong tool, and you risk shattering your expensive slabs. To avoid thermal shock and chipped edges, you need a specific approach: that’s what we’re here to offer.
As your local paving specialists, we’re breaking down everything you need to know about porcelain DIY: the differences between wet and dry cutting, the mandatory safety equipment, and the step-by-step methods for resizing these notoriously tough pavers.
Why are porcelain tiles difficult to cut?
As we’ve said, porcelain tiles are difficult to cut for the same reasons they’re great for gardens: they’re deliberately made to be tough. During manufacturing, the materials are fired at significantly higher temperatures than standard ceramics.
The finished product is hard-wearing, but this hardness doesn’t behave the way softer materials do when you apply pressure with a grinder or saw.
In fact, the material is so tough that it can be difficult to score effectively without specialised equipment, and if you apply uneven pressure, the tile is more likely to shatter or crack than snap cleanly.
If you’re resizing your tiles, you’ll need to take a very patient approach: this is especially true for thicker 20mm pavers. These slabs have a much higher tensile strength than thinner tiles, and may require specialised cutters to avoid damaging the slab and your equipment.
Homeowners should also remember that porcelain is essentially a stronger version of ceramic, so standard tools simply won't cut it – literally.
Materials and tools
- Electric wet tile saw (with a sliding table)
- Angle grinder
- Continuous-rim diamond blade
- Diamond polishing pad
- FFP3 respirator mask
- Safety goggles
- Ear defenders
- Heavy-duty gloves
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Masking tape
- Cleaning cloth or sponge
Is it better to cut porcelain tiles wet or dry?
The consensus is weighted towards wet (particularly when you’re dealing with denser, outdoor-grade 20mm porcelain). Dry cutting (with an angle grinder) generates a lot of friction and heat; it may be favoured for speed on smaller jobs, but not on larger projects.
In fact, heat is the enemy of porcelain. The diamond blade heats up without coolant, and this extreme temperature variance can cause the dense slab to shatter or crack due to a sudden thermal shock.
But dry cutting can still be useful: it’s great for quick trims or cutting to accommodate awkward corners, the only trade-off being that it’s messier and may require more PPE.
Wet tile cutting method
Before you even plug the saw in, check: are you wearing the right PPE? Safety guidance states that you must wear safety goggles to protect against flying debris and ear defenders, as electric wet saws can be loud.
- Select and check your blade: Standard ceramic blades struggle with the density of outdoor paving – we recommend using a high-quality, continuous-rim diamond blade specifically designed for hard porcelain. If you already have one, check that it’s in good condition (a dull blade can chip the tile).
- Measure and mark your cut: Using a pencil, draw your cutting line clearly on the surface of the paver. When measuring, don't forget to take the blade's thickness into consideration. You want the blade to cut on the waste side of your line.
- Turn on the saw and wait for water to pass over the blade: Doing this can prevent overheating. Then, before the blade touches the tile, spin it as fast as you can.
- Feed the tile gradually: Move the table slowly in the direction of the blade.
- Complete the cut carefully: As you reach the end, slow down even further. It’s at this point that the corner of your tile will break off, so just push the final few centimetres through very gently for a crisp edge. Once cut, switch off the machine and wipe the slab down to remove any slurry before it dries.
Dry tile cutting method
- Prioritise respiratory safety: We mentioned the importance of PPE earlier; dry cutting generates much more dust, so you should work in a well-ventilated space (ideally outdoors). For this method, you can’t rely on a simple paper mask. Wear a proper FFP3 respirator, safety goggles, and heavy-duty gloves.
- Mark and tape the cut line: Measure your cut accurately on the face of the paver. A top tip is to place a strip of masking tape along the line where you intend to cut. Draw your pencil line on top of the tape: this should help hold the surface glaze together.
- Make the full cut: Once the surface is scored, you can cut deeper. For thick landscaping slabs, it’s safer to make multiple passes, cutting deeper each time, rather than forcing the blade through in a single plunge.
- Smooth the edges: After the off-cut is removed, the edges may be slightly sharp or rough. Use a diamond polishing pad or the face of your grinding blade (gently) to smooth the cut edge.
FAQs
Is it better to cut porcelain tiles wet or dry?
We recommend wet cutting, particularly for those working with our 20mm porcelain paving slabs. Dry cutting is possible for quick adjustments, but you need to follow strict safety measures (and have a steady hand!)
What is the best blade for porcelain tile?
You need a high-quality, continuous rim diamond blade that is specifically labelled for hard porcelain or vitrified tiles.
Do you drill porcelain tile quickly or slowly?
Slowly. Porcelain is incredibly dense, so high speeds create excessive heat that can crack the tile or burn out your drill bit.
Can you cut porcelain tile with a hand grinder?
Yes, you can use an angle grinder (hand grinder) for dry cutting.
Will a masonry blade cut porcelain tile?
No, standard masonry blades aren’t suitable: they’re designed for softer materials like concrete or brick.
Do porcelain tiles need gaps?
Yes, absolutely. You should never butt-joint porcelain pavers together.